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Corumba 25.11.07
Heute haben wir uns am morgen offiziell in Brasilien angemeldet und eine 4-tagestour im Pantanal gebucht. Morgen früh um 6.30 uhr gehts los... Sonst haben wir heute nicht viel gemacht ausser uns von der busfahrt erholt. Bis freitag sind wir also sicher nicht mehr zu erreichen. Bis bald
Corumba (Brasilien) 24.11.07
Es ist 20.00 uhr, wir sitzen nach unserem ersten brasilianischem essen (superfein...) im hotel, schauen fern, verstehen fast nichts und ich schreibe deshalb ein bisschen im tagebuch... Gestern nachmittag begaben wir uns pünktlich zur busstation um unseren bus ja nicht zu verpassen. Es bestand jedoch, wie so oft in Bolivien, kein grund zur sorge, da der bus zwar relativ pünktlich da war, aber ca. 2 stunden keine anstalten machte den busbahnhof zu verlassen... Warum dem so war wissen nur die götter. Es war jedoch keine grosse überraschung und wir verweilten uns unterdessen mit interessanten gesprächen mit einigen bolivianern... Die busfahrt verlief anschliessend ohne grössere zwischenfälle, mal abgesehen davon, dass es ab und zu ein bisschen auf uns reinregnete, da die fensterscheiben nicht 100 % dicht waren... Nach einer 19 stunden-fahrt (fahrplanmässig 15 stunden- für die schotterstrassen war der dauerregen einfach zu viel...) erreichten wir mit 6 stunden verspätung (wir fuhren ja ca. 2 stunden zu spät ab...) die grenze... Im strömenden regen überquerten wir zu fuss die bolivianische grenze und fanden die brasilianische geschlossen vor... Ein herr versicherte uns jedoch, dass dies kein grösseres problem sei, wir könnten unsere formalitäten auch am folgenden tag erledigen. So nahmen wir ein taxi und fuhren ins erstbeste hotel nach Corumba. Wir sind zwar im moment noch nicht offiziell in Brasilien und trotzdem ist uns bereits aufgefallen, dass die zeit mit dem superbilligen leben (viva Bolivia) nun endgültig vorbei ist :-( Wir sind aber trotzdem sicher, dass wir unser budget einhalten können, müssen uns aber wieder an ein einfacheres leben gewöhnen. Morgen werden wir versuchen unser trip durch den Pantanal zu organisieren und uns offiziell in Brasilien anzumelden. Mal schauen ob unsere pläne in Brasilien einfacher in die tat umzusetzen sind...
Corumba (Brazil) 25.11.07
In Santa Cruz we had our first real taste of Latin American time keeping. After having some food in the centre and interesting conversations with a Mexican guy and a Columbian guy about Brazil we went to the bus station. 5pm and 6pm came and went with no explanations, we started talking with a Bolivian lad who was trying to learn English, halfway through our explanations and Dario´s translations the bus arrived two hour s late and then another came right behind it. People were scrambling to get on the first bus but nobody came to tell us which bus was going where. We decided to watch for our bags and get on that bus, at some point some must have realised they were on the wrong bus as lots of people were throwing their bags and pillows out of the window and changed to the other bus. The lad we had been chatting too was also on the bus and for about thirty minutes we helped him write a letter to a friend he clearly missed! Then he stood up and started selling to the people on the bus, he was very good at his job and after most had bought his wares he returned to us and asked to explain some song lyrics (I don~t want to miss a thing, Aerosmith). Then he somehow knew, in the dark, that this part of an empty road was were he needed to get off and quickly jumped out.
The bus journey was a little longer then they told us at the station, 19 hours instead of 15 but I suppose it prepares us for the longer journeys ahead. Even though the seats weren´t the comfiest and the bus was either hot or wet (along with my little rucksack, which I now know isn´t waterproof as my reserve of toilet roll and toilet seat covers are now just a wet lumps) I´m guessing it won´t be the worst trip we will take.
We arrived at the Brazilian border to find they had closed for the evening. However, we were told we could enter and get a stamp the next day. We were a little skeptical but the hotel told us the same and after a couple of beers we didn´t really care we were in the country illegally! We went for something to eat, and found a little place next to the river. Looking at other places along the way we were a bit shocked at the prices (coming from Bolivia everything is expensive here) anyway we decided it would be cheaper to order one meal and a starter as Dario doesn´ eat the vegetables and salad anyway. Once the food arrived we realised the reason everything seemed so expensive as the dishes were to share - but the meat was fab so we didn´t really complain.
Today we got our stamps in our passport and organised a tour in to the Pantanal. We leave early tomorrow and then take a bus to Campo Grande on Thursday. It took a while to book as the "deal" kept changing but if all goes well we have a couple of walks, a night excursion, a jeep safari, horse-riding, floating down the river, a fishing trip with all food and water included! The boss is Swiss so lets hope the pictures and the itinerary are true! We nearly went today as they had space but our hotel wouldn´t give us any money back so we are here for one more night! I´m not really sure what tomorrow will bring but I´m sure it will be fun!
xxx
Santa Cruz 23.11.07 Once again our train journey won’t be happening! Dario went to the train station at 5.45am to buy tickets, he returned after 8am with bus tickets! As he waited for the doors to open more and more Bolivians came. Once they opened they ran to the counter filling the aisles in seconds. After lots of pushing and shoving) and the occasional punch ups= the queues started to move. After a while a lady tried to help him however to buy a ticket he needed our passports and not copies to buy a ticket. Unfortunately they were with me in the hotel room. The reason there are so many people pushing forward with their birth certificates is the ticket is 50 boliviano cheaper (about £2.50), than the bus. So at 5pm tonight a 15 hour bus ride awaits us….. X
We missed out a stop in the way here because of a delay to our bus trip. We arrived a little early at the bus station in
Today we went to the locals hang out ´Parque El Arenal´with shady areas and a lagoon with boats. I think the proud Bolivians may have bolstered it a little as the boating lake in
Tomorrow we are off to the train station at 6am to buy a ticket on the notorious death train (due to the amount of people who died whilst they were building it) to take us to the border with
Love us xxx
Wir verliessen vorgestern
Sucre 19.11.07
Saturday was our last day at Guadulpe with the girls. After breakfast the older girls had to wash their clothes and bedspreads by hand, whilst Dario and I played with the younger girls. Including a new arrival, who eventually played ball with us and granted us a smile! We played lots of games of chase, played with the ball and danced around! Though there were a few moments of resting in the shade from the hot sun! Once the girls finished with their clothes the water was put to good use, and a full scale water fight erupted! After a few pictures and lots of cuddles it was time to say goodbye.
On Sunday we went to Tarabuco`s market. The bus bumped and snaked its way along at a crawling pace but we got there! The market was very big and there were stalls everywhere! After trying and touching many things I bought a woollen hand knitted hat – though not with the dangling bits, honestly!
After dragging Dario around all the stalls we headed to a local “restaurant” for a cool beverage whilst we waited for our bus back. The way back seemed even slower, though he was optimistic at one point and over took a bus at full throttle! Within three minutes the road started to snake a bit and as the wheels had no tread his pace slowed dramatically and the other bus overtook with ease!
Today is our last day in
Love us xxx
Sucre 18.11.07
Gestern hatten wir unseren letzten tag im Centre Guadalupe… traurig, traurig! Es war jedoch toll einblick in das leben dieser maedchen und ihrer traurigen geschichten zu bekommen. Eine unvergessliche erfahrung!
Heute fuhren wir um 8.00 uhr morgens mit einem kleinen bus nach Tarabuco, einem kleinen doerfchen in den Bergen, etwa 2 stunden weg von Sucre. Die fahrt war ziemlich interessant, wie es die fotos hoffentlich teilweise zeigen. In Tarabuco gibt es eigentlich nichts zu sehen – jeweils sonntags jedoch kommen alle bauern und einheimischen von allen taelern hierher um ihre waren auf einem riesigen markt zu verkaufen. Nachdem wir ein paar stunden hin- und hergeschlendert waren und uns in einem “restaurant” verstaerkt hatten, ging es auch schon wieder zurueck nach
We are still in
Yesterday we went to Centro Guadalupe at 8am, armed with more pencils. It was a bit chaotic as it was one of the teacher’s birthday and the children had made some birthday banners and a cake. After singing Happy Birthday in a strange English / Spanish mix we all had a cup of chocolate and a piece of cake. There are about 20 girls living there ranging from 2 -17 years old - as well as one of the girls 6 month old baby boy. Some go to school in the morning, some in the afternoon and others stay there all day. Dario and I went upstairs with some of the girls, a few books, some paper and some crayons. We were there till 12pm I worked with the younger ones helping them write then drawing and playing with them whilst Dario took the older ones and did some maths with them. We left them for lunch and then returned for the afternoon. Most of the older ones were in the classroom whilst we had the younger ones outside. Though one girl had a school project to do which both Dario and I helped her with - first Dario to create some mountains and then I took over to help complete the scenery.
We went there again today and this time we were just left alone with a few of the children. We went upstairs to the classroom again and waited. When nobody gave us any thing to do with them I went to ask about their books from yesterday. The younger ones would receive new ones next week and we could do whatever we wanted. So, again, armed with crayons, paper, books and a soft volley ball I went back up. Again Dario took the older couple and I stayed with the younger ones. They managed to stay at the table a while but then they wanted to move around, so off we went to the back with the ball and played. The girls are so sweet and will pretty much do anything as long as you do it with them. Though it can be a bit difficult trying to let them all sit on your knee during reading time (even my days at DD didn’t prepare me for the way they all tried to scramble on)! So it was easier to take one a time to a big chair and read, whilst the others distracted Dario and his lessons or drew pictures. Though, DD did prepare me for little toilet accidents and potty training with the adorable little Navi. Mind you all the other girls were very willing to help out too, it’s so sweet the way they have taken to looking after each other.
We are going back there again tomorrow morning for the last time - which will be a little sad. I’m not sure what we will be doing as all the children will be there but I am sure it will be fun! So no late nights for us as the body isn’t quite used to getting up at seven and the brain isn’t used to working - well it has been a while! ;-)
Take care and have a good weekend all, love us xxx
Wir haben jetzt bereits 2 tage im Centro Guadalupe für waisenkinder ausgeholfen. Um acht uhr morgens standen wir gestern vor der türe. Als erstes stand die kleine geburtstagsfeier einer leiterin auf dem programm. Die mädchen gratulierten ihr mit einem selbstgemalten poster und dem geburtstagslied auf spanisch und englisch. Wir assen dann alle zusammen geburtstagskuchen und tranken eine warme schocki morgens um 8.00uhr. Im heim leben ca. 20 mädchen zwischen 2 und 16. Nach der kleinen feier begleiteten Emma und ich die älteren mädchen ins “klassenzimmer” und waren dann für 4 stunden alleine mit ihnen. Wir wussten nicht so genau was von uns erwartet wurde… Emma unterhielt dann die kleinen und ich half den älteren mit mathe. Am Nachmittag ging es im gleichen stil weiter, nur dass wir nicht mehr im “klassenzimmer” waren, sondern draussen im innenhof. Wir spielten ein paar stunden und verliessen dann um 17.00 uhr ziemlich müde das heim. Wir wurden den eindruck nicht los, dass sich die heimleiterinnen nun dank uns ein paar “freie” tage gönnen… Was solls, sie haben es sich sicher verdient. Unsere vermutung wurde heute bestätigt - wir sahen nur eine heimleiterin kurz und hatten die mädchen fast die ganze zeit für uns alleine… Nachdem wir das heim verlassen hatten, kauften wir uns bustickets für einen tagesausflug nach Tarabuco am sonntag. Es soll dort sonntags einen grossartigen markt haben. Zudem buchten wir für dienstag bereits den bus für unsere weiterreise richtung
Gestern abend sassen wir lange im innenhof unseres hotels und sprachen mit dem besitzer, seiner tochter und dem receptionist, nachdem Emma der tochter mit den englischhausaufgaben für die uni geholfen hatte. (ein text der allerheiligen erklärte…) Es war ein sehr interessanter abend und wir konnten gleichzeitig viele fotos mit dem hotelcomputer auf unsere homepage hochladen, bonus! Heute morgen liefen wir nach einem feinen frühstück richtung Centro Guadalupe, einem heim für waisenkinder in
After our dirty and dusty morning we travelled 3 hours downwards (thankfully I can breathe again) to
Tomorrow we are going to mooch around and try and get our bearings of the city. Then maybe do a few touristy things
Bye for now! xxx
Alter consulting the bus and train timetables we decided to change our plans and go to Potosí instead of
Before heading off we went to visit the Mines, which were huge with approximately 20000 men working there. There was just Dario and I on the tour so it was very personal and interesting. Before getting there we stopped to buy some gifts for the miners, a bag with biscuits, coca leaves, explosives and cigarettes. The miners all work by hand and the conditions were pretty appalling. Most miners only survive about 10 years because of the conditions, mainly the lack of ventilation. Dario worked a little down there but it was exceedingly hard - it was hard enough for me to walk through and chat with them! Most of the workers are part of a co-operative but there are talks of bringing in machines. If this does happen they calculate that in a couple of years there will be no minerals left. All the miners appreciate the visitors (probably due to the gifts) and were very happy to chat and have their photographs taken. Mind you the prep talk about all miners wearing hats wasn´t strictly true – as you can see from the photographs!
Am morgen unserer abfahrt von Potosi erfuhren wir, dass wir auch nur zu zweit und nach unseren wünschen in die minen fahren konnten. Wir entschlossen dies zu tun und erlebten eine sehr interessante stunde in einer alten mine. Etwa 20000 männer arbeiten in den minen, verdienen praktlisch nichts und haben normalerweise noch 10 jahre ihres lebens, wenn sie die arbeit in den minen aufnehmen… Es war sehr eindrücklich und an den orten die wir besuchten auch nicht gefährlich, oder mal nicht gefährlicher als sich in einen bus zu setzen… wobei dies nur für die wenigsten minen gilt…
Nach dem besuch der minen fuhren wir dann direkt weiter nach
Potosí 11.11.07
Uyuni hatte nicht allzuviel zu bieten - es ist eine stadt am rande der Salar, die den touristen als ausgangspunkt für touren dient. Das Tonito Hotel allerdings war supertoll und wir hatten endlich wieder mal eine warme dusche - ole… ein weiterer höhepunkt war, dass die halbe stadt am samstag ohne strom auskommen musste, aber das war`s dann auch schon an höhepunkten. Heute fuhren wir mit einem bus 6 stunden nach
Uyuni 10.11.07 Our trip to Uyuni was brilliant, though we did have a couple of hiccoughs along the way! We were told to be at the agency at 8am on Wednesday morning, well we arrived early so we could change some money. There was a big bus waiting and we asked the guy if this was Cordillera, he just answered yes my company get on get on! We were a little bit worried as the day before we were told there would only be 6 people and there were about 18! As we got to the border we had to fill in a form it was at that point we realised we were with the wrong company and quickly asked the driver to ring and tell the others where we were. We waited a little while and our company arrived and we joined the right group. Along with the couple we met the day before there was also a nice couple from Belgium with us. Our driver and guide, Javier from Bolivia, packed up our bags on top of the 4 x 4 and we set off for the Bolivian border. Between the borders there was pretty much nothing for the whole drive - except a great view of the Lincacubar Volcano- and after a couple of hours we pulled up to Border control ‘ or a hut¨ and got our passports stamped. I was given 90 days and Dario 30 days (the first time it´s better to have a UK passport!) but I´m sure we will be out of the country by then. If not the guy said we could just pay when we leave if Dario goes over his visa. Throughout the trip the sights were beautiful and we took hundreds of photos so I hope that there are some that show how lovely it was. We first went to the Laguna Verde then on to the thermal baths, which Dario did get into and it was fab, really nice, hot and clear much better than the one the day before. We dragged ourselves out of the hot water and continued to the Geysers Sol de Manana, which actually were more impressive than the other ones - but maybe that´s because we were so high (4850 metres) and there weren´t hundreds of people there. From there we drove to Laguna Colorado where hundreds of flamingos live. We walked around part of the lake before heading to our lodgings for the evening. Our lodgings were very basic and our group shared a room, after dinner and a couple of bottles of wine we were the last group still up and giggling so we though we had better go to bed, Prof. We had a good group I think. It was so cold duirng the night and I was sleeping in thermals and my big jumper, wrapped in my sleeping bag as well as blankets! When we told Javier that we didn´t really sleep that well as it was so cold he just laughed at us. Which is fair enough as it´s now late spring and in the middle of winter the temperature drops below -25!
Our second day started with a very cold and quick face wash, lots of layers and a few hot drinks for breakfast before setting off to Arbolde La Pierdra. After taking copious pictures of the stone we went to three different lakes, Laguna Hedionta, Laguna Canapa and Laguna Chiarcota. We had a great view of the active Volcano Ollague, which has smoke swirling around the top of it. Our last visit was to a small village before heading to our hotel. This is where we had our next little hiccough - after putting our bags into our own private double rooms we went back outside to Javier. He said we might have to leave as there was no cook at the hotel, however one may arrive soon. We had a discussion for a while and we said we could maybe cook for ourselves. At this point the guy from the hotel said that there was no kitchen either! With that Javier repacked the bags on top of the jeep and drove us to another hotel. This turned out to be a bonus as we had ensuite bathrooms and hot water - well a dribble but after three days of cold showers and none the day before a little dribble is wonderful. Javier also gave us a bottle of wine with our meal - bonus! The last day we drove through part of the Salar Uyuni - the biggest Salt plains in the world. It was cool looking round and seeing nothing but white salt and blue sky. As the area at one point, was a sea there was a coral island standing in the salt plains. The Isla del Pescado was covered in Cacti and had a little path to walk around it. There was a sign describing the tallest and oldest Cactus, however the poor thing is pretty dead as the top bit hangs down and its full of holes. I think they may have to start measuring again to find one that is the tallest, oldest and alive. After visiting the island we drove on to a village. Of course we had to stop along the way to take even more pictures and play childish games (that last bit might have just been Dario and I ;-) ) Our last stop was in Colchani, where they take the salt to sell. This salt refinery )of shorts - it is all done by hand and they earn less then 70p per tonne that they dig up!! The village had lots of touristy trinkets and wool clothes. As it gets a little cold here I bought myself a hat and we bought 2 salt candle holders (though not sure if they will last). We had lunch at the village, and so did a dog hanging around as he got our uneaten meat and bones, and then headed to Uyuni. Our guide was a mad driver but very good and we always arrived ahead of the others, even with numerous photo stops, giving us the impresión that it was only ever us about. The last bit was no exception. We were the first ones back, intime and out of petrol as the petrol station on the edge of the plains had ran out. We are staying here in Uyuni for a couple of days, in the nicest hotel here )bargain £15 including breakfast and hot running showers=! In our room there is a map of Scotland and Northern England to the river Tyne, not quite sure what the connection as all the other pictures around are from local places or the USA. We were planning to watch the toon play and then use the internet but at present there is no electricity so we will have to wait and see! It took us a while but we found a place, though to say that the connection is slow would be being kind! Have a good weekend all Love us xxx
San Pedro de Atacama 6.11.07 It was not very nice waiting outside for our bus at 4am and especially as he was 25 minutes late! Anyway we got to the geysers with before sunrise and they exploded upwards. Our guide told us not to stand over them as 9 days ago a Chilean guy was taking a picture down into the geyser and it went off! Not really a nice way to go! We met up with the group from yesterday and we had a good chat and hot drinks whilst watching the geysers. They can shoot up over 3 meters but today they didn´t get so high, but there were a lot of them bubbling away. After watching the geysers we went to a thermal bath, Dario didn´t make it in and to be honest it was either cool or too hot so I didn´t stay in too long. We returned about 1pm and set out looking for a tour to take us into Bolivia. This morning we met a Swiss guy who works for the Swiss Embassy in Paraguay and his missus from Venezuela. They had booked with a company and after talking with the lady we signed up too. Well we have to pack and buy water etc for our trip so bye for now. Xxx
Uyuni (Bolivia) 9.11.07
Am mittwoch morgen punkt 8.00 uhr bestiegen wir ausserhalb “unseres” reisebüros den bus für die 3-tägige reise nach bolivien. Wir waren etwas überrascht, dass ca. 20 personen im bus sassen obwohl uns die dame im büro am vortag gesagt hatte, wir seien nur zu sechst…(ein reiseverrücktes paar aus Belgien und ein anderes paar, er schweizerkonsulat in Paraguay, sie von Venezuela) Wir fragten also nach, ob wir am richtigen ort seien und es wurde uns versichert alles sei in ordnung. Als wir dann nach einer zehnminütigen fahrt ausserhalb San Pedros die ausreisevormalitäten für Chile erledigen mussten, merkten wir, dass wir den falschen bus bestiegen hatten… Zehn minuten später erreichte dann aber auch unser bus mit 4 personen plus fahrer den “grenzposten”. Zuerst fuhren wir etwa 2 stunden die Anden hoch, vorbei am Vulkan Lincancabur (
San Pedro de Atacama 6.11.07
Bereits um 3.30 wurden wir durch unseren wecker aus dem tiefen schlaf gerissen... und wie es sich für schweizer gehört (oder mindestens ein teil von uns...), standen wir pünktlich um 4 uhr in der strasse vor dem hotel und warteten darauf abgeholt zu werden. 25 Minuten später war es dann schon so weit und unser trip zu den Tatio Geysiren konnte beginnen. 86 km, 1 1/2 stunden fahrt, 1900 höhenmeter - dies sind die eckdaten unserer "gutmorgenfahrt" auf einer schotterstrasse, die beim gefahrenen tempo (anscheinend ist es laut guide besser für den minibus mit ca. 70 km/h auf einer strasse zu fahren, die die alte culmstrasse gut aussehen lässt...), definitiv kein schlafen zulässt. Um ca. 6 uhr erreichten wir dann das auf 4300 metern gelegene Geysirfeld, noch bevor die sonne aufging. Bei temeperaturen von ca. minus 10 grad stiegen wir aus und warteten darauf, dass die wärmende sonne endlich aufgehen würde. Der temperaturunterschied, der die aufgehende sonne mitsichbringt, lässt die Geysire so richtig erwachen. Aus dutzenden von erdlöchern dampft und sprudelt heisses wasser in die luft. Hier mekrt man sehr gut, dass die Anden ein relativ junges vulkanisches gebirge sind! Nach einem frühstück im freien an der stark wärmenden sonne, hatten wir dann noch die gelegenheit in einem naturtermalbad zu baden. Anschliessend fuhren wir bereits wieder richtung San Pedro, stoppten aber unterwegs noch in einem dorf (Atacamena de Machuca) welches auf ca. 4000 metern liegt um ein bisschen llamafleisch zu essen... Wiederum ein unvergesslicher tag!
Unsere weiteren pläne haben sich leicht geändert, weil unsere geplante zugüberfahrt nach Bolivien ins wasser fällt. ( der zug ist anscheindend kaputt und man weiss nicht so genau wann er wieder in betrieb sein wird...) Deshalb haben wir heute ein 3 tagestrip nach Uyuni (Bolivien) gebucht. Diese tour wird uns über einen 4480 meter hohen pass führen und sicher wieder viele schöne bilder und unvergessliche erinnerungen liefern. Bis bald ' Ciao Chile ' Bienvenidos Bolivia!
San Pedro De Atacama 05.11.07
We were going to head to Copiapo for a night then to here, but as the busses travel over night we just hung around in Capiapo for a few hours and left at 21.30 for a nice 11 hour bus ride (we had already sat on the bus for 5 hours). The journey itself was ok and we slept most of the way and arrived in time to catch the next bus to San Pedro De Atacama. An hour or so later we arrived and found our guesthouse, though as it was still early we had to wait till our room was ready. We managed to organise the tours we wanted and booked to go to the Valle de La Luna to watch the sunset, a day trip to Salar de Atacama, the Miscanti and Meniques lagoons and two villages as well as a nice early morning tour to the Tatio Geysers.
The Valle de la Luna tour was interesting and very picturesque but the guide had no interest and herded us on and off the bus - though we did have a lot of fun running down a sand dune! The formations created by the salt rocks were out of this world and walking in between them was great. We did have to try and time our walks, either walking quite quickly or very slowly in order to take photos without a lot of people. One bonus part of this bigish (there were bigger ones) tour was we did meet three guys from the Netherlands who live in Bolivia. So we were able to pick their brains - as well as have a good giggle - about Bolivia.
Todays tour was completely different, we were picked up by another company in a minibus with nine other people. The guide started the tour by explaining what the normal tour is and how we would be doing a different one. He took us to the beautiful lagoons and salt lakes we had booked and also to the Laguna Tuyaito and Socaire. He described them on the way as better than the other places and with no other tourists and he didn't exaggerate. They were breathtakingly beautiful, full of different colours and birds. As well as other animals roaming around such as Llamas, goats and a coyote. We took many pictures and hope they do justice to what we saw today. The guide even took us through his village on the way back. The day really was fab we learnt a lot about the area, were treated to some wonderful views and the group was very nice too. When ever he pointed something out there were also discussions what they were called in French, German, English and Portuguese. It's a shame we won't be with that group again tomorrow as we are with another agency (when theagency doesn't have atleast six people they club together so we definitely lucked out) but we might meet up with a couple in Brazil if we decide to go to Rio before Belo Horizonte. Hope you enjoy the pictures as much as we did today. Now it's goodnight as we have a 4am start tomorrow!
Love us xxx
Cont.....Vicuna
We eventually were given the green light to go up to the observatory! Whilst we waited for the bus to arrive we waited in the Plaza de Armas. There were lots of schoolchildren running around and eventually one shouted “What's your name?”, after we answered they all came running over. For the next 30 minutes we were besieged with questions, asked to write in books as well as have our pictures taken. After arriving early and waiting we still had to run to catch the bus.
The trip to the observatory was amazing, we could clearly see the Milky way and many, many stars. The guide showed us some constalations and explained that they could see 83 out of the 88 constaltions throughout the year. Throughout this trip we have had many discusasions with different people about which stars you can see, now atleast we have an answer! ‘ You can see approx. 85 - 90% of the sky throughout the year, and this is why there is a little area in the south hemisphere where the stars have no names because the ancient greeks were unable to see them. After looking through the telescopes we were given a presentation about how stars form and how they cluster, including a powerpoint presenatation which really was amazing and worth waiting a few days for.
San Pedro de Atacama 5.11.07
OLE’was für ein tag heute… ich hoffe, dass die bilder für sich sprechen werden. Zuerst aber zu gestern abend und dem Valle de la Luna. Um 16.00 uhr verliessen wir San Pedro fuhren zuerst zu einem aussichtspunkt, um einen eindruck der hochlandwüstenumgebung zu bekommen. Anschliessend liefen wir zweimal ca. 30 minuten durch schluchten, die durch erosion ihre magischen formen bekommen haben. Da gegen abend die temperaturen dramatisch sinken, hört man das salz in den felsen knirschen. Gegen 18.30 uhr machten wir uns dann auf den weg zum vorgesehenen aussichtspunkt für den spektakulären sonnenuntergang. Der 6000 meter hohe vulkan Lincancabur leuchtet beim sonnenuntergang zuerst gelb-orange, dann tiefrot, später violett und am ende dunkelblau... einfach atemberaubend... leider konnte ich diese farblichen höhepunkte nicht gut genug mit fotos festhalten- was solls, wer´s sehen will, muss hierher kommen- es lohnt sich bestimmt!
Heute morgen fuhren wir dann zu 9t mit guide richtung Altiplano los. Unsere gruppe war toll- eine deutschguatemalische familie, ein tolles portugiesenpaar und eine französin die schon 30 jahre in Mexico City lebt. Zuerst erreichten wir die zwei wundervollen lagunen Miscanti und Miniques, die die namen der vulkangipfel tragen, die sie umzingeln. Die lagunen liegen auf ca. 4200 metern und die vulkangipfel erreichen stolze 6000 meter. Da unser guide einen freund bei sich hatte kamen wir am nachmittag in den genuss einer fahrt, die sonst mit touren nicht angeboten wird- und es war einfach überwältigend, mit worten kaum zu beschreiben... daher hier nur die namen der salzseen mit ihren llamas, flamingos und kojoten’ schaut selbst (Laguna Tuyaito und Socaire) Auf dem weg nach hause besuchten wir am abend noch das eine oder andere hochlanddörfchen, assen an einem ort und erreichten dann um 18.00uhr wieder San Pedro de Atacama. Was für ein unvergesslicher tag und was für ein glück diesen tourguide mit seinem tourifreund erwischt zu haben!!! Morgen früh müssen wir bereits um 4 uhr aufstehen um das hochtal (ca 4300 meter) von Tatio mit dem höchstgelegenen Geysirfeld der welt zu besuchen... also dann -gute nacht und bis bald
San Pedro de Atacama 4.11.07
Am Freitag abend hat es endlich geklappt mit dem observatorium!!! Der ganze Freitag war wolkenlos und so mieteten wir in unserem hostel zwei fahrräder und erkundeten ein bisschen die umgebung von vicuna. Gegen abend kehrten wir dann ins hostel zurück und begaben uns anschliessend zum büro der sternwarte mamallucu in der stadt. Wir mussten noch eine halbe stunde warten bis alles parat war und so sassen wir noch im stadtpark, Plaza de Armas. Schon nach wenigen minuten waren wir von ca. 20 chilenischen schülern umgeben, die uns alle mit fragen bombardierten. Die Kinder befanden sich auf einem Schulausflug und besuchten in der gleichen nacht auch die sternwarte. Die fahrt ins observatorium führte 9 km den berg hinauf und als wir oben ankamen war es schon stockdunkel und das einzige was man sehen konnte waren die wüstenberge und sterne, nichts als sterne. Ich habe die Milchstrasse noch die so klar gesehen und dachte im ersten moment wirklich es handle sich um eine wolke... Unser tourguide zeigte uns zuerst viele sternbilder (insgesamt gibt es 88, von Mamalluca aus kann man während des jahres 83 sehen...), bevor wir dann durch verschiedene teloskope schauen konnten. Unter anderem sahen wir saturn, alle anderen planeten waren zu diesem zeitpunkt nicht sichtbar. Gegen ende des rundganges kamen wir noch in den genuss einer Power-point präsentation, die die geburt und entstehung des universums erklärte. Es waren 2 1/2 unvergessliche stunden, einfach genial! Während der tour hatte ich auch die gelegenheit eine frage loszuwerden, die uns schon während unserer gesamten reise begleitete... immer wieder hatten wir diskussionen, ob es möglich sei alle sterne, die wir auf der nordhalbkugel sehen, auch auf der südhalbkugel zu sehen - die meisten leute die wir fragten waren überzeugt, dass man auf der südhalbkugel andere sehe. Ich war immer der meinung, dass man wahrscheinlich alle überall sehen könne... Es ist nun anscheinend so, dass wir z.b. in Europa ca. 85-90% aller sterne, die man auch auf der südhalbkugel sehen kann, sehen. Unser tourgide zeigte uns dann einen sehr sehr kleinen ausschnitt am himmel, der auf der nordhalbkugel nicht zu sehen sei... darin liegt auch die begründung warum in diesem teil des nachthimmels keine sternbilder benannt wurden - die alten griechen sahen diesen teil ganz einfach nicht und konnten daher auch nichts benennen! Man sieht in Mamalluca eine höhere konzentration an sternen als z.b. in der ägyptischen wüste, vor allem wegen der höhenlage und der schützenden inversionsschicht, die ich im letzten eintrag beschrieben habe. Wir werden diese nacht ganz bestimmt niemals vergessen und sie wird als ein höhepunkt unserer reise in erinnerung bleiben.
Am Samstag morgen fuhren wir dann talabwärts, zurück nach La Serena. Anschliessend mit dem bus 5 stunden weiter in den norden bis nach Copiapo. Dort assen wir etwas, ruhten uns aus und bestiegen dann 6 stunden später um 21.30 uhr den nachtbus nach Calama.(weitere 11 stunden busfahrt) als wir dann am sonntagmorgen in Calama ankamen wartete schon der nächste bus auf uns der uns nach San Pedro de Atacama brachte. San Pedro ist der bekannteste wüstenort in Chile. Die umgebung macht San Pedro so bekannt. Es liegt auf 2440 metern höhe, umgeben von einem knappen dutzend fünf- und sechstausernden, von denen der Vulkan Lincancabur der auffälligste Gipfel ist. Und dann gibt es da noch u.a. Salar de Atacama, Valle de la Luna, die Lugunen von Miscanti und Meniques, den Tatio Geysir und und und... davon aber das nächste mal mehr und hoffentlich auch mit fotos! Bis dann
Vicuna 31.10.07
I arrived in Vicuna a little bruised after I managed to fall down the ramp on the way to the bus!- it certainly wasn´t very graceful and it didn´t go unnoticed either. As i tripped and gravity took over a woman screamed and ran over, by the time Dario turned around I was lying like a bug on its back unable to move with my rucksack underneath me. I unclipped myself from my bag and very stood up - well dragged by the woman and man who ran over=, with the bruises appearing on my knees and a very red face! All Dario could ask was what was I doing and all I could do was laugh at myself point to the floor ( even upon close inspection I couldn´t find a fault) and try to carry on as if nothing had happened. Needless to say the guy took my bag off me before getting anywhere near his bus!
Anyway, we had booked a tour to the observatory to see the stars. Vicuna has the wonderful fortune of having a clear sky for 350 days a year, so we thought we will stay here a night go on the tour and move on. Well, it´s the 2nd November and we are still here! We are waiting for the clouds to clear! Though today looks very promising, and the sun has been shining all day so we hope to leave here tomorrow - but there are a few clouds making their way across the sky! To fill our time we went for a day to Pisco Elqui. We took the bus to Monte Grande and then walked the last bit (around
The place we are staying is lovely and the people are so friendly, the boss very has very kindly let us use his computer’ so we actually got to read some news and see what is happening in the world.
Last night we went to the pub to eat and discovered there was a football match on. The team everybody was supporting lost 4 - 1 but they didn´t stop singing and shouting until the final whistle. At which point it was like a mass exodus as every-one left muttering to themselves and Dario and I were practically alone.
Today we went for a little bike ride around the area for a few hours. We had a little picnic near the bottom of the hills before riding back into town, where because it has been so long since we saw the sun we had to stop again for an ice-cream!
If we do make it to the observatory tonight we are going to head off early tomorrow back to
Bye for now
Love us xxx
We stayed for two nights in a nice little place with a kitchenette, which of course meant we had to go food shopping. I love looking around supermarkets in different countries, looking at all the different fruits, meats etc. Mind you just walking to the big supermarkets is a trip in itself!
The next day we caught a bus along the beach so we could walk back along it. Though it was a bit chilly it was very pretty. We started where all the fishing boats were and there were lots of beautiful big pelicans just hanging around trying to pinch the fish or at the very least the bits the fisherman left after cleaning them=! We walked the full length, approx.
Vicuna 1.11.07
Heute sind wir mit dem bus nach Monte Grande gefahren.
Vicuna 31.10.07
Zitat aus dem reiseführer zu den oberservatorien um vicuna und warum sie so ideal gelegen sind: “Zum einen die entfernung zu den städten, die ansonsten störende lichteffekte auf den nachthimmel zaubern, zum anderen die schützende inversionsschicht des küstennebels, die auf etwa 1000 metern höhe alle störenden staubpartikel festhält, die sonst die lichtdurchlässigkeit der atmosphäre einschränken würden. Deshalb ist es über der wüste bei